As September rolls in, our adventure along the Atlantic coast continues. Next stop: Biarritz. For years, I’ve been obsessed with visiting this charming city. Widely known for its laid-back luxury and surfing paradise, it’s not so easy to get to… but somehow everyone seems to end up here eventually. And even though we only stayed for 24 hours, and the weather was stormy, it was worth every second. I’ll be back.
But first… before leaving the Arcachon area, I simply had to visit Dune du Pilat.
Dune du Pilat
This is one of the biggest tourist attractions in the region, and it definitely feels like it. We were lucky to arrive just before the crowds (around 11 a.m.), but even then the parking area was already filling up with German and Spanish families carrying rucksacks and gear.
The dune itself, though, is undeniably impressive, a giant mountain of sand rising between the pine forest and the Atlantic. You can even see it from most of Arcachon as a backdrop, shimmering in the sun.
My tips if you go:
- Flip-flops, not sneakers, you’ll end up taking them off on the way up anyway.
- No need to dress up here, but wear your pearls if you must..
- You can climb either by the wooden steps (safer if you’re not into heights) or freestyle up the sand. Both ways feel like a little adventure. Once you’re up, sit down, roll around, enjoy the fine sand. Don’t mind the thousand people around you and kids playing.
- If you’re in good shape, avoid the crowds and don’t stop at the official parking lot. Drive a bit further and you’ll find a small, free parking spot. From there, you can reach the dune with almost no people around (be prepared to walk a bit though).
- Skip the overpriced snacks and souvenirs.
- Honestly, some of the best views of the dune are from Arcachon itself, especially when the sunlight hits it just right.
My honest opinion? It’s cool, but once is definitely enough – it’s incredibly touristy and doesn’t feel all that special.
Next stop… Biarritz
After the warm and quiet time in Arcachon, we rolled into Biarritz just before midday and went straight to the oceanfront. It was a very dramatic day, stormy, rainy, and the waves were super high. Oddly enough the spirits were high and I loved the contrast: the force of nature crashing against the beautiful, well-kept shore. We walked as much as we could before it became almost impossible to move to really soak up this beauty.. but now what?
Biarritz is a place where you should arrive with a plan. It’s easy to fall into tourist traps, expensive restaurants, and overpriced hotels. Make yourself a little list before you go, trust me, it’s worth it.
My highlights:
1. Eating at Chixko à Bidart
This place randomly popped up on my Insta feed one day, and I bookmarked it for a “just in case.” Given the weather, we decided it was the perfect time to go. It doesn’t look like much from the outside, you’d drive right past if you didn’t know it was there. Inside, though, it’s warm, wooden, and full of surfer energy. Local IPA beers, pulled pork or chicken burgers, rock music in the background, and an easy crowd of surfers and young couples. You don’t need fancy clothes here. Just good vibes.
2. Sitting by la Grande Plage
The ocean is the heart of Biarritz. So instead of wasting precious time (and money) on shops, we grabbed a coffee, found a spot by the shore, and just let the waves put on their endless show. It wasn’t swim weather, but I didn’t care – the view was priceless.
3. Visiting the lighthouse
It’s a short drive but absolutely worth it. From there, you see Biarritz from a different perspective, with cliffs and coastline stretching endlessly. On stormy days, it feels raw and powerful, like the ocean is alive.
4. Staying outside Biarritz
At last, it was time to leave this majestic city and check into our rental for the night. We booked an Airbnb about 20 minutes away, in a quiet little town. Actually, it was a small shed in someone’s backyard. Small but cute and clean – it saved us money, gave us more space, and felt like a sweet break from the buzz of the city. Highly recommend it if you’re on a road trip.
5. Letting go
One amazing thing about Biarritz is how easily it makes you forget your daily worries. There’s something seductive about being by the ocean. Whether you want to try surfing (this is the spot!), wander along the cliffs, or just watch the waves for hours, the city has a way of reminding you to breathe.
I only had 24 hours, but that was enough for Biarritz to leave its mark on me. Next time, I’ll stay longer, maybe even try surfing, but for now, we’re continuing on our trip down to Spain. San Sebastián, here we come!
EXPRESSO NIGHTS 