We’re nearing the end of our first week on a road trip through Germany, France, and Spain, and there are so many impressions in my head that I’m struggling to put them into words. I have so much to say about this laid-back region on the Atlantic Ocean: the kindness of the people, the seduction of food and wine, the wind, and the peaceful days spent exploring an area marked by cabanes, a slow pace, and deep conversations.
Before packing and cooking later (we’re staying in tonight to make our signature spaghetti bolognese), I’m treating myself to some leftover baguette with soft French cheese and peach. How can peaches taste so juicy and sweet? It’s one of the little details that makes life so beautiful here. And generally speaking, a lot of life here revolves around food and wine. It tempts you in the form of oysters, freshly made baguettes and pastries, rotisserie chicken, French restaurants, and endless seafood.
I had read many times that Parisians come to Arcachon and Cap Ferret for vacation, and now I understand why. You can spend an entire day in silence, enjoying the sound of the ocean, getting lost in thoughts, or reading a book at the beach. And if you ever feel restless, you can always reserve some time to explore Arcachon and the charming villages around it.
Gujan Mestras – La Teste de Buch – La Hume
If you’re expecting big touristy areas, loud music, souvenir shops selling magnets and mugs, and restaurants on every corner, this is definitely not the place to come. Around Arcachon, life unfolds in these little villages, each with its own charm. It took me almost five days to slow down and start unwinding.
Our Airbnb rental is in a residential area, though it’s not clear to me whether people actually live here year-round or mostly use them as second homes. In any case, at the end of August, this place feels nearly empty, apart from a few families with young kids and older couples riding their bikes. It was hard to get used to the sound of nothing at first, but now that we’re packing for the next chapter of our roadtrip I suddenly realize how much I’ll be missing this place.
Some highlights
Doing… nothing and gaining so much
We’re all so busy with life, constantly running from one appointment to the next and trying to be “on” all the time, that when we suddenly step away, we feel empty and dissatisfied with ourselves, as if we’re failing at enjoying life without responsibilities. That was my mood for the first 48 hours, and it was hard to be fully present in the moment.
But slowly, I discovered new luxuries: deep breathing, sunbathing, feeling the sand between my toes, enjoying the ocean and reading books without looking at the time. Doing nothing, it turns out, can give you so much.
Cabane à Dégustation des Huîtres Papillon is a must-visit in this region, with a lovely hostess, great wine, oysters served with bread and salty butter, large prawns, bulots, and pâté. It was the first highlight of the trip and it didn’t disappoint. Imagine a romantic night for two lovers chatting about everything and nothing, pausing only to take a sip of wine. It’s amazing how different you suddenly feel far away from home.
La Marine – Restaurant Bistro: and just across from the Cabane is this French restaurant that is the only one on this strip (at least we couldn’t find any). We came here for food but but stayed for the warmth of the people and the cozy atmosphere that made conversation (and wine) flow so easily.
TROC SUD BASSIN vintage store: With my new obsession for interior design, we had to stop here in search of gems for our apartment. This place isn’t big but is popular with both locals and tourists. Wandering through, you’ll find porcelain plates and sets, posters and wall art, records, decorations, quirky pieces, clothes, lamps, furniture, just so many little things that give the place its charm. I ended up buying a woven goat for my living room wall, and I hope it fits with the rest of the décor. I guess I’ll find out in a couple of weeks!
And more food… at the Supermarche HYPER
When two hungry animals are coming from the woods… that’s how it felt when we went into the biggest supermarket in France. My brain and legs stopped functioning looking at all isles with cheese and wine. And the ready-made paella is a classic that was number one on our list.
This is only the beginning.. coming up: Dune de Pyla!
EXPRESSO NIGHTS 
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